Skin pigmentation and key whitening ingredients

In cosmetology, there are now a huge number of ingredients that make up products for skin whitening... They have varying degrees of whitening. Let's take a look at some of them that are among the most proven and effective.

Hydroquinone. Suppresses the synthesis of melanin and has a strong whitening effect. But this substance is toxic. In cosmetology, hydroquinone is used with a concentration of 2%, since higher concentrations can have a toxic effect on all skin cells, especially if used for a long time. It can be skin irritation and even hyperpigmentation. Therefore, hydroquinone is used in cosmetology with other ingredients such as retinol, lactic and kojic acids, as well as various plant extracts. In this way, a good whitening effect can be achieved with a low concentration of hydroquinone.

Hydrogen peroxide. Significantly brightens the skin by oxidizing melanin, but can irritate the skin and produce free radicals.

Kojic acid... It is an effective bleach that targets tyrosinase, an enzyme required for melanin synthesis. But kojic acid can irritate the skin and cause an allergic reaction. In addition, this substance is unstable - it is destroyed in the light and during long-term storage. In cosmetics, it is used at a concentration of 1 - 4%.

Vitamin C. This substance oxidizes melanin and also inhibits its synthesis. Its derivatives are used - ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascobyl phosphate, since ascorbic acid itself is unstable in aqueous solutions.

Arbutin. A substance that inhibits the synthesis of melanin, but does not affect the already formed melanin. Arbutin is found in some plants, such as bearberry. The substance is not toxic, but weaker than hydroquinone.

It should be mentioned as the main whitening ingredients such as paper mulberry extract, licorice extract, aloesin.

Auxiliary ingredients: extracts of chamomile, cucumber, grapefruit, lemon, papaya, pineapple, green tea, grapes, rice germs.

All cosmetic whitening agents have a complex composition, which is aimed at suppressing the synthesis of melanin, its oxidation, and exfoliation of the stratum corneum. The composition includes substances that have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, as well as substances that accelerate the exfoliation of the stratum corneum and renewal of the epidermis. The latter include alpha hydroxy acids (AHA - Alpha Hydroxy Acids). They are also called fruit acids. The concentration of these acids in non-professional creams (creams that we buy and use at home) should not exceed 4% so as not to cause skin irritation.

In cosmetology, citric, malic, tartaric, grape and glycolic acids are used. They also include lactic acid, but it is obtained synthetically. The advantage of lactic acid is its good ability to retain moisture.

There are other substances that accelerate the exfoliation of the stratum corneum and the renewal of the epidermis. These are retinoids that act like vitamin A - for example, trans retinoic acid. It should be noted that these substances cause severe skin irritation in some people, moreover, they are contraindicated for pregnant and lactating women.

Many manufacturers of whitening products try to use herbal remedies: essential oils, herbal extracts, although allergic reactions are also possible here.

Some of the whitening ingredients are listed, but as you can see if you look closely, each of them has its own characteristics, which are divided into advantages and disadvantages. But they have one thing in common - there are none among them that could be used without fear for their precious skin.

Many of the most effective bleaching agents are toxic and can, if used incorrectly, cause increased pigmentation or other complications. In second place in terms of the number of complications, ANA or kojic acid, these substances have an irritating effect. Herbal extracts are considered the safest. But more often than not, safer remedies are less effective. However, patience is better than getting into trouble.