Translated from French "art deco" means "decorative art". The Art Deco style, or as it is also called - Art Deco, got its name when in 1925 an exhibition of arts and crafts was held in Paris. When and how did this style emerge? And in general, what does he represent in the art of jewelry?

Already at the very beginning of the 20th century, jewelers began to abandon the winding lines of modernity and turn to the search for new means of expression. In the late Art Nouveau, geometric lines inherent in Art Deco were already discovered, but everything was interrupted by the First World War, after the end of which people even more eagerly tried to find new ideals, because in addition to destruction and human sacrifice, there was disappointment in the values ​​of the past.



After World War I a new woman appeared, who inspired poets and artists, including jewelers. It was during this time that Louis Cartier sketched sketches of his first jewelry in a new direction.



Jewelers, like all sculptors of art, are always sensitive to the mood in society. How to help forget the horrors of war, bring joy to people? It was at that time that the eclecticism of style trends made Art Deco an innovative style.

And so, the designers of jewelry houses proposed new forms, which became geometric, linear design, symmetrical composition, color contrasts and a special cut of precious stones, which acquired clearer lines, to a greater extent there were triangular, trapezoidal and emerald.

At first, jewelers used inexpensive materials: enamel, chrome, glass, plastic and preferred bright colors. However, the post-war society strove to create around itself the illusion of luxury and well-being. And first of all, it could be done by the queens of the Hollywood movie screen. Their bracelets and necklaces sparkled with diamonds from the screens.



In the Art Deco era, platinum became a cult metal, namely Cartier brought this noble metal into fashion. And along with it, white gold, silver, steel and even aluminum gained popularity. In addition to metals, jewelers often used exotic materials - ivory, crocodile and shark skin, as well as rare wood species. They used pure white mother-of-pearl, white diamonds and black onyx ...



The most common decorating technique was metal enameling and unusual cutting. The forms of Art Deco jewelry are clear geometry and strict symmetry, arrangement of elements with a certain rhythm of alternation.

The leading motives in the design of jewelry, in addition to geometry, were the images and decorations of the Russian Ballet by S. Diaghilev, the culture of different countries and eras - Ancient Egypt, China, Japan, India, Ancient Greece, Africa, objects of flora and fauna.



Among the most picturesque adornments is the tassel brooch, long strand of faux pearls, long earrings, including tassel earrings that adorned the cropped heads of beauties, heavy belts, bracelets worn not only on the wrist, but also on the forearm, a headband (bando) decorated with rhinestones, pearls, and for some and diamonds, cocktail ring, collar necklace, snake necklace and bracelet, panther ring and bracelet ...

During the Art Deco period, precious lighters and cigarette holders also came into fashion, in which the components of the black and white range also alternated.

Wristwatches have gained exceptional popularity, in the creation of which jewelers showed extraordinary imagination. The watches had a variety of shapes, rich decor, originality and grace. The watch case and bracelets were decorated with precious stones.

Some of the most famous jewelers of the time were Georges Fouquet and his son. The Parisian jeweler Raymond Templier also made interesting artistic solutions. A special place in his work is occupied by jewelry with strict geometric elements with bright enamel decor, with a spectacular color contrast.



The history of the House of Cartier clearly illustrates the formation of the Art Deco style. Louis Cartier jewelry pieces from the 1920s and 1930s demonstrate the main stages in the development of a new style. Initially, Cartier used a circle or a segment more, believing that it was these geometric shapes that were suitable for women's jewelry. Then he began to use a square and a rectangle.

The jeweler decorated his jewelry with diamonds combined with other stones and enamel. His jewelry works played with bright colors and exquisite colors, for example, in products made of onyx, rock crystal and jade, coral and mother-of-pearl, he added luxurious diamonds. Gradually, the jewelers of the House of Cartier abandoned the bright colors and began to use white. This is how the style appeared - "white art deco".

Jewelry with strict geometric shapes in a contrasting combination of white and black colors - white platinum and diamonds with black onyx or black enamel - were magnificent. It was on the basis of this color contrast that a peculiar motive was created, which received the name - "panther skin".

Later, the motif was used to create brooches in the shape of panthers, as well as to decorate hair ornaments and wristwatches. But, nevertheless, it was difficult to refuse completely from bright colors of emeralds, rubies, sapphires, even in “white art deco”. Therefore, Cartier loved to create brooches - "fruit bowls". The multicolored tutti frutti jewelery has become famous Cartier jewelery.



After the opening of the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922, there was a surge of interest in Egyptian jewelry, among Cartier jewelry there are spectacular pendants made of jade plates with diamonds and rubies, the famous “scarab” brooch made of smoky quartz, faience, decorated with diamonds.

The brightness and multicolor in the art of jewelry increased even more in 1929 and beyond, because these are the years when the purchasing power was lost in all spheres of life, and in order to attract attention and withstand difficult times, the brightest pieces of jewelry were created. Jade, topaz, zircon, coral, and aquamarine have become popular.

The Art Deco style can be called finally formed by the early 20s, and in 1925 it received its final recognition, and therefore it was at the exhibition held in Paris in 1925 that the style got its name.



The exhibition featured jewelry works by Fouquet, Templier, Sandoz, Boucheron, Van Cleef, Cartier, Moboussin and many other French jewelers. The success of the jewelers has been tremendous. The Parisian jeweler Georges Moboussin received the Gold Medal for Art Deco jewelry.

The admiration of the visitors knew no bounds. Everyone admired the necklaces created by Moboussin, in which platinum-set diamonds alternated with beautiful pearls, a jadeite ring, pendants in the form of flower vases and fountains. After the exhibition, Mobussen became famous.

Not only works of jewelry art "Cartier" and "Moboussin" glorified the Art Deco style, thanks to the jewelers "Boucheron", "Van Cleef and Arpels", Art Deco style has become a world-recognized synonym of luxury and admiration. In those years, many things changed in people's lives, new technologies were developed, new materials were searched, research was carried out in science and technology.



It was a century of achievements in all spheres of activity and life of mankind. All this was reflected in the activities of the jewelry art. At Van Cleef & Arpels, jewelers have invented a new type of setting for precious stones - invisible setting. The stones were cut so that it was possible to set them close to each other, thus, the base metal was completely covered by the "stone pavement". This made it possible to create the finest jewelry.

In the jewelry markets, diamond clip brooches, sautoirs, elegant bracelets with clear ornamental patterns made of precious stones were in demand. Brooches-tassels, beads from natural stones came into fashion. Particularly popular, thanks to the fashion for short haircuts, were acquired by long cascading earrings and large clips that covered the earlobe.

Art critics believe that the Art Deco style dominated the art world for only about two decades, from World War I to World War II. But something else is important - many of the techniques and achievements in jewelry technique, developed during the Art Deco times, turned out to be so universal that the influence of this style was felt by master-jewelers for a long time in subsequent generations.

In modern fashion jewelry the art deco style is popular again. He is chosen by confident women who prefer luxury and at the same time aristocratic restraint.