Fashion of the 60s of the XIX century - the era of crinoline and the origin of the bustle. 1860s - the development of industry, a period of rapid change of costume, the appearance in fashion of the first couturier - Charles Frederick Worth, who raised the status of a tailor to the highest level.

Charles Frederick Worth - the famous English fashion designer. In the beginning, just a successful fashion dealer, as the tailors were called then, he made a brilliant career as a designer. It happened in Paris, where Charles Frederick Worth became the first tailor Empress Eugenie, whose patronage of the fashion designer turned him into the first true "dictator" of Parisian fashion.



Worth's clientele included high-ranking persons of European courts, this list included the names of sovereigns, princesses, well-known secular ladies, famous actresses and ladies of the half-world. Worth's brilliant success was due to his talent for feeling his time. He glorified French fashion, had a great influence on the birth of the style of women's clothing.

In his creations, Worth emphasized the flexibility of feminine lines and used expensive fabrics. Thanks to him, weaving developed rapidly not only in Lyon, but also in other cities of France, and then in European countries. He skillfully combined materials of different textures, amazed with a variety of embroideries, and used the richest decor in his models.

In trading houses, life was in full swing, the faces of charming ladies with enthusiastic open eyes and a blush on their faces flashed ... It was this time that inspired the famous French writer, Emile Zola, to the work "Ladies' Happiness", in which he spoke not only about the happiness of acquiring the coveted lace , collars, capes and other items of women's happiness, but also about the hardships of life and everyday life of artisans, who were left without means of subsistence due to technological progress.




In the early 1860s, Worth's ideas were in the crinoline style. He created his masterpieces by association with the Rococo style, the clothes looked magnificent and heavy, it corresponded to the spirit of the times. From the moment the great couturier appeared in Paris, the crinoline skirt began to change its shape.

In the 1860s Over the years the crinoline has gone through more than one change, and each time it brought a noticeable novelty. Over time, hundreds of meters of flounces gradually disappeared, a lot of ruffles and other similar decorative elements corresponding to the time of the 50s, more strict forms appeared, the dome-shaped crinoline created more splendor in the back.

In 1862 year, there is a tendency of the skirt "flying back", in which the hoops take the shape of an ellipse, while the front lines of the suit are smoother, and the silhouette of the lady becomes slimmer. Ladies of the 60s of the 19th century suddenly became tall and slender.

Among other innovations in the lady's suit, another element appeared - a tunic, or tunic, the upper part of a double skirt. This piece of clothing was often detachable, knee-length or slightly lower, had a variety of configurations, and was worn over a long dress. With the help of this element, the excessive splendor of the skirt was eliminated, the silhouette in front became smoother, slender and calm.



The discomfort from crinoline in the second half of the 60s of the 19th century is reduced to a minimum, while the diameter of the hoops decreases. In 1864, Worth introduced the following shape of the silhouette - squeezing ellipse hoops at the sides, then one-piece dresses, as they were called, princess-cut dresses, appeared. These latest innovations eliminate pleats and pleats at the waist, and the skirt takes on an elongated tapered shape.

Some progressive representatives of society at this time begin to completely ignore crinoline.And Worth, in the second half of the 60s, introduced an even lighter crinoline into fashion, which only supports the trains and draperies on the tunics. The contours of the next decade are outlined. In the meantime, tunics are selected on ribbons, fastened with artificial flowers, bows, draped with cords and other decorative elements.



At the same time, cropped crinolines appear, under which the legs of the lady in boots are slightly visible. These dresses were meant for the street. For new silhouettes, new hairstyles appear, which were quite complex and required lush long hair. The hair was laid on the back of the head with a beautiful roller or down in heavy curls.

Naturally, not all ladies were gifted by nature with luxurious hair, like Princess Sisi - Empress of Austria Elizabeth of Bavaria, so ready-made hairpieces were bought and pinned with beautiful hairpins or combs.



Bonnets began to be worn less often, they are worn as an accessory to travel or walking suits. Fashionable hats at this time are small, they are worn slightly shifted on the forehead to open a lush hair roll in the back. The hats were made of felt, straws with tiny brims, decorated with feathers, ribbons, lace.

Ballroom dresses, as for the skirt, have undergone the same changes that are described above, the bodice of the dress with a snip remained unchanged for a long time. The shape of the sleeve, neckline and decoration of these elements remained the same as in the previous decade.

Worth's ballroom outfits brought him fame and success. Among Worth's sumptuous creations were ball gowns foam lace supply and ensembles combining taffeta, velvet and his favorite Lyon silk. Secular beauties in Worth's ball gowns were painted by the painters of that time. Especially famous was the artist Franz Winterhalter, who painted countless portraits of the beauties of that time.