Everything could have gone according to the usual scenario: the collection with the Italian name Valentino in the capital of world fashion sets the trends for spring-summer 2021. But this year Pierpaolo Piccioli preferred the vastness of his homeland to the usual Paris and presented the collection in Milan.

From the first exits, we see the minimalism and coquetry that the creative director of the House brought to the catwalk for the new season, while maintaining the brand's DNA: flowers, metal spikes and a traditional red dress. “Fashion should reflect the real world, and not broadcast an unattainable image,” says Piccioli.



Talking about the creation of the collection, Pierpaolo reimagined the concept of a "little black dress", making it ultra-short and wearing it over the shorts. The designer continues to amaze, intertwining luxury and everyday life in the new collection: classic Levi's 1969 517 jeans made an excellent pair of romantic blouses made of airy chiffon. True, the collaboration between the French House and the American brand does not outwardly differ from the original model, only two logos flaunt on the label.



The designer of the fashion house demonstrated on the catwalk models made of lace and crochet, as an option for a casual look. What is noteworthy: many things were presented on both men and women, having the same style and texture. “Gender boundaries are blurring here,” Piccioli said.



A romantic mood is easily read in the collection - flowers, lace, ruffles, flying fabrics. To his own question “what is romanticism manifested in today”, the designer boldly answers:

“Individualism, freedom of expression, diversity. Modern romanticism is not about an attractive appearance, but about a lifestyle: it is unique, devoid of prejudices, filled with emotions ”

Despite the fact that it is impossible to predict the events of 2021, Pierpaolo Piccioli did not go headlong into practicality. Keeping in mind the legacy of Valentino of luxurious evening wear, this season he presented sheer maxi dresses with ruffles, frills and huge exotic flowers.



Accessories cannot be ignored: Piccioli took inspiration from the Rockstud archival collection and recreated it in his own style, slightly enlarging the spikes on the pointed slingbacks and iconic bags.



The color palette in this collection is very rich: orange, yellow, pink, red, purple, brown and achromats - black and white.

Hairstyles hint that naturalness is an enduring trend. Forget about liters of nail polish and complicated haute couture designs on your head. If you want to stand out, do it with makeup: thick eyes (and some models walk the catwalk with a gothic shade of lipstick) will be a hit of the next season.

The Valentino show was opened by 18-year-old model Alex Andrews. Patricia Pilotti, casting director, met this flamboyant 70s-haired girl at Greenwich Station. It is easy to see that there were no well-known models at the show. Piccioli says there are personalities (not just models) walking the catwalk representing the modern world; each of them is unique and has every right to be themselves, including green hair.



The main “inspiration” for Piccioli was an archival photograph of American actress Angelica Houston in 1972. She has been the face of several Valentino Haute Couture campaigns. And the photo in which she poses to Gian Paolo Barbieri in a yellow sundress with huge lilies has become a favorite of many designers.



At the end of August, the designer decides to move the show from the majestic Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, where Valentino shows usually take place, to the former Fonderia Macchi foundry, located in the vastness of his native Italy. Pierpaolo Piccioli argued that he did not want to expose the Valentino team to the risk of contracting the coronavirus due to flights between Italy and France.

The factory was left as it was found, including dust on the floor and steps.Guest florist designer Satoshi Kawamoto drowned the walls and columns of the building in flowers and greenery. An interesting fact: all the guests of the show received bouquets of flowers instead of the usual invitations. “Usually flowers serve as decoration, decoration, but on this show they became a sign of strength,” Piccioli confides.

The musical mood of the show was handled by British performer and Primetime Emmy winner Labrinth, known for creating the soundtrack for the TV series Euphoria.

Pierpaolo Piccioli himself, as a true (read: modest) genius, came out to the guests in the image of total black, adding an accent to the neck in the form of multilayer pendants and wearing white Nike.