The founder of the Sacai brand, Chitose Abe, managed to preserve the unique DNA of the French fashion house and presented her interpretation of the iconic things once created by Jean-Paul Gaultier.

In 2020, Jean-Paul Gaultier literally stunned the entire fashion world with the news that he was ending his career, but immediately softened the "blow", clarifying that the cult fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier will continue to work. It became known that only the concept of the brand will change - from now on, invited designers will be engaged in the creation of collections.

The first to contribute to the legacy of the legendary French brand was the honor of the founder of Sacai - Chitose Abe. Her debut was eagerly awaited by both the public and fashion critics. It was painfully interesting whether the recognizable DNA of Jean Paul Gaultier would change with the arrival of a new designer.

We had to wait long enough - the show was postponed several times (the pandemic was to blame for it). But it is worth admitting that the anticipation fueled some intrigue, as a result of which the interest in the new collection only increased. And yet, the show took place in July 2021 as part of Paris Haute Couture Week.



Legendary couturier Jean-Paul Gaultier was also present. He, of course, could not ignore his "brainchild" and not see what changes have occurred with his brand. The great designer should be given credit: having made the decision to retire, he really kept his word. Jean-Paul did not interfere with the preparation for the new collection - this was confirmed by Chitose Abe.

The collection turned out, as always, refined and a little rebellious. The invited designer managed to fully preserve the atmosphere of the fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier, presenting the public with a symbiosis of high fashion and punk aesthetics. This is quite in the spirit of Jean-Paul Gaultier himself.

Chitose Abe admitted that she is a big fan of the famous designer. The founder of Sacai always watched with particular care the character and collections of Jean Paul Gaultier, therefore, when preparing for the show, she did not even have to consult the archives of the brand - everything was already in her memory.

The fashion show surprised by the abundance of deconstructed things, the contrast of textures and a new interpretation of the already cult things... Most importantly, it proved that the era of the Jean Paul Gaultier brand has not gone anywhere (and many were so afraid of that).



On the catwalk, the models demonstrated complex-cut transforming things: dresses, trench coats, corsets and trousers. All images were centered around layering and the combination of different textures. At the same time, the clothes did not look "heavy", on the contrary, seemingly complex bows created the impression of lightness.

Not without this season's trendy total-denim looks. Chitose Abe, like many designers, thought about ecology and turned to the acclaimed upcycling, using old reworked jeans instead of new materials.



The new fall-winter 2021-2022 collection was also pleased with the presence of cult items in it, which once became the hallmarks of Jean-Paul Gaultier himself. At the show, the models showed branded vests, hats with large lapels and Madonna's conical bra.



At first glance, it may seem that Chitose Abe was too eager to please the eminent designer and made a collection that fully meets his personal vision. In fact, during the show, the author's reading and innovative solutions of the founder of Sacai were very keenly felt. That only there are clothes with a tattoo print. Bodysuits, longsleeves and overalls with images from the tattoo artist Doctor Woo made a lot of noise and, for sure, have already appeared in the wardrobes of many fashionistas.



Chitose Abe paid special attention to accessories - and she was definitely right. The designer complemented the looks with massive necklaces, rings, original bracelets, brooches, and even piercings. Such details brought a special punk rock vibe to the created looks.

“It was a very intimate, friendlier proposal.It was not like a combination of two companies, it was like a combination of two people, " - told Chitose Abe about her collaboration with Jean-Paul Gaultier.

This commentary fully describes the new collection of the iconic French brand, which is literally imbued with the spirit of friendship between the two designers.