Do-it-yourself perfumery - natural perfume "Dreams on a Full Moon"

For several years now I have been creating natural fragrances. It is very exciting and interesting! Perfumery is exactly that field of activity where you can express yourself to the fullest.
Briefly about why I love NATURAL perfumes: They are individual. On the skin, they live their own lives, tell you their story, they never get bored, tk. sound completely different, changing the scent depending on the weather, temperature, your clothes and even your mood! Also, if the spirits are correctly selected, they cheer up, have a positive effect on the psyche - they focus, soothe or invigorate.

1. "Dreams on the Full Moon" is a fragrance dedicated to dreams, magical and beautiful, which are confused with reality and dream on a full moon. There are night flowers, gentle clouds and distant stars. The inspiration for the creation of the fragrance was the first warm nights, it is on such nights that incredible dreams are dreamed ...

I presented this fragrance, and immediately - at night, I wrote down its ingredients in my old, battered book with recipes and perfume formulas. (photo 1)

Approximate ingredients (there were 18 of them) - (top notaneroli, mimosa, currant, green mandarin, petitgrain), (heart note - magnolia, tuberose, frangipani, rose, two types of lavender, violet, berry extracts, vanilla) and (base note - iris, incense, benzoin, elemi and tobacco). On tinctures (tinctures) of rose, currant and iris root.

2. In the afternoon, I decided to start bringing the scent to life, starting with the preparation of the workplace - I took out pipettes, blotters, and odorous substances - absolutes, essential oils and resinoids. :) (photo 2)

Oh, yes, and of course the tinctures, which I filtered before use (so that they are transparent, you can use coffee filters for this). (photo 3)

3. Composing the scent begins with a sample of the components of the top note. (Actually, you need to start composing perfumery with base notes, but since this is a light, weightless scent, I paid more attention to the first note. Perhaps this is not correct, however, each perfumer has its own peculiarities in work, its own secrets, its own "chip ":)) Dripping a drop of each oil onto a separate blotter, and then inhaling their aroma, I figured out which oil needed more, which less, or maybe something was unnecessary here. During the test, it turned out that the top note clearly lacks the sweetness and brightness that is inherent in an ordinary orange and still lacks the invigorating coolness of bergamot (by the way, one of my favorite oils). (photo 4)

I wrote down the corrected formula of the top note of the perfume again, only now with exact proportions.

So, the ingredients for the first note are:

Currant
Neroli
Green tangerine
Mimosa
Petitgrain
Bergamot
Orange

4. Now our favorite note is the heart. It is here that the beautiful rose blooms and the magnificent jasmine shimmers. Here are just my nose "sniffed", and no longer so clearly hears smells. In such a case, on my desktop there is always a funny lamb with coffee beans, which will "cheer up" my sense of smell :) (photo 5) You can still go to drink tea to see your masterpiece with a different look :)

I picked the heart note, like the head note, but at the same time combining them with each other. You can already feel it - the scent comes out wonderful, exactly conveying the idea.

So, the components of the second note:

Magnolia
Tuberose
the Rose
Berries
Frangipani
Lavender
Vanilla
Violet

As part of the heart, I did not change anything, I just picked up the proportions (photo 7)

5. The last note is the base. We listen to the resulting aroma and think about how to complement it. (Hey, where's my coffee lamb? :))

First of all, iris, yes, definitely. It will create powderiness, add softness. I will use co2. From the extracts of co2, there will also be nutmeg - soft, rough and warm. Again, I define the proportions and ingredients that complement, "round" the idea.

Base note composition:

Iris
Incense
Cedar (atlas)
Benzoin
Elemi
Nutmeg
Tobacco

6. The formula of the perfume is ready - the fragrance is embodied ... Almost. (photo 8) Now I will make 1 ml of concentrated scent, and dilute it with filtered tinctures of rose, currant leaves and iris, to a concentration of 20%, i.e. up to 5 ml, leaving to ripen for a month, and after a month, when the fragrance is finally ready (perhaps I will add something else to it, it often happens that by the end of ripening some special accent is missing, etc.) , he will go to the "trial" of strict "judges". And only after that it will be recreated in a larger quantity and will go to