Chypre fragrances

There are smells that often do not exist in nature, and sometimes it is difficult to describe them. Then they talk about fantasy perfumery. In 1917, François Coty was the first to combine natural and artificial scents. A composition was developed, which he called "Chypre". This cologne was the progenitor of fantasy perfumery. The success of "Chypre" was so amazing that later in perfumery he became the head of a family that included the smells of oak moss, patchouli, cistus, bergamot, labdanum. The smell of "Chypre" is original and not found in nature. At first, its smell was attributed to masculine fragrances, and then, adding floral-herbaceous aromas (oil roses, jasmine, petitgrain, carnation, etc.) have also received women's fragrances.

The most successful combination of essential oils with synthetic components, which vividly characterizes the generally recognized chypre ensemble, is a combination containing lemongrass, bergamot, geranium, orange, patchouli oils, elemi oil, jasmine (composition), oak moss resinoid, vetiverol, methylnylonylacetate, linera , coumarin, heliotropin, aldehyde C11, amber musk.

The family of chypre fragrances can be classified into:

directly chypre,
woody chypre,
floral chypre,
chypre floral-aldehyde,
chypre fruit,
chypre with a scent of greenery,
leather-chypre.

The rich gamut of chypre accords is imbued with forest, earthy and autumnal fragrances, but they also have a different sound, a different atmosphere. The chypre note of perfume also includes exotic aromas: patchouli, vetiver, santal, ylang-ylang, pepper, cloves, myrrh, musk, tsivet, and many, many others.

Russian perfumer Konstantin Verigin, studying chypre notes, discovered in them the entire aromatic range of the Christmas tree. This fragrance, familiar from childhood, is especially pronounced in some of the most famous fragrances: in Chypre by Coty, Mitsouko by Guerlain, Fruit Vert by Florel, Cr? Pe de Chine by Millau, in Rumeur »From Lanvin... A chypre warm aroma, subtle and light fragrance is felt in these perfumes. But each of them has its own character, its own sound. In the ingenious "Chypre" from Coty, accords of fragrant jasmine on a civet-amber base are heard, the famous "Mitsouko" from Guerlain envelop with fruity freshness and spice, "Cr? Pe de Chine" from Millau is fragrant with a bouquet of roses and carnations against the background of the scent of precious trees, the sonorous charm of the lily of the valley magician in the breath of forest aromas is felt in “Fruit Vert” from Florel, bright fruit sound is heard in “Rumeur” from Lanvin against a fragrant animal background.

The success story of each fragrance has its own reasons and, of course, secrets. Here, for example, in "Mitsouko" from Guerlain. "Mitsouko" is translated into Russian - "Mystery". What is the secret here? Maybe in the charm of the fragrance of the scent? Or the secret of that beautiful Japanese woman whose image hides the scent?

The First World War is over - universal joy, joy of continuing life, joy of new life. The Russian opera Madame Butterfly shines at the Grand Opera, Paris is read by Claude Farrer's novel The Battle, which describes the love story of the beautiful Japanese woman Mitsuko, the wife of a Japanese admiral, and a young British officer. Their love was ardent and selfless, but short. In a sea battle, both the husband and the handsome lover perish. Mitsuko wears white mourning clothes for the rest of his days. But no one ever found out for whom she was in mourning. It was her secret.

This mystery, dressed in a chypre scent, in which a combination of jasmine, rose, peach, oakmoss, vetiver, cedar, ambergris and spices, has won women's hearts for 80 years with its exciting and mysterious notes.

"Mitsouko" not only conquered with its secret, but also became a kind of emblem of the Guerlain House, its pride.